Once again
I was about to walk between two worlds, one more familiar and comfortable, the
other constantly shape shifting as I tried to grasp it. Will I get it this
time, or will it get me first? This chasing game is all I'm in for everytime I
hop on a plane leaving for some, let's say, less predictable land.
Most of
the times, I lost it for lack of patience or time to understand its rules, but
this time over I have more time to stay and “get it”, and patience will
hopefully follow suit.
Two months
is what I have this time. Two months - maybe more - and a new city, Ankara, that
I've only seen from a speeding bus once and that is now waiting to be my
stomping grounds for some time.
I know
Istanbul quite well now, as I've been there many times, but as much as I love
it and it is fascinating I also understand now that it is not Turkey. Or
better, it is ALL Turkeys, a place that is pulled in all directions by
invisible energies that wants it once european, once eastern, once holy, once
dirty.
Ankara
instead is the capital, the newer point of balance to this massive and manifold
country. I can already feel the difference from what I've known so far, as this
is a much “tidier” city; streets are wide and airy, life appears to be more
inclined to rush less and sleep early, and the State's institutions make
themselves considerably more noticed than elsewhere.
But is
this Turkey, I wonder? Or is it a projection of what this country thrives to
be? Surely, by the scale of the efforts made to celebrate the country's history
one may think that the ambition to greatness is all there; and no better place
to notice this than Anıtkabir, the massive mausoleum and resting place to
modern Turkey's founder Atatürk.
I visited
it on my second day in the city, and in all its majestic monumentality I could
not help but seeing echoes of similar places in Europe, where the care to
remember our past is paramount. In a place so young and mixed like Turkey,
instead, such celebration perhaps feels slightly misplaced.
But I want
to get deeper into that as I'm living here, as I'm sure that I am still
influenced by my western mentality and I surely don't know enough about this
country's history and culture.
Having
made all these deep sociolpolitical considerations, I can now finally focus on
my favourite part of cultural exchange: food!
The whole world knows that us Italians are the snobbiest when it comes to eating, and as a food-loving Italian I am perfectly aware that I can easily fit that description. But I'll go against my cultural instincts and say that turkish food is just great. Sure, meat is omnipresent and perhaps olives and tea don't make the easiest breakfast to approach when coming from cappuccino and cornetto, but in general it's a total win for me. Meze are the best invention since probably the wheel, ayran should be mandatory everywhere in place of water, and lokum is the best possible way to glue one's teeth together.
So, in conclusion, there's enough for everybody here. Just be ready to set some of your convinctions aside, because there is so much here to take in that you must leave some room inside your brain. And soul.
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